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Guide to Hirugami Onsen – Southern Nagano’s Largest Hot Spring

A favorite escape from Nagoya, Hirugami offersrejuvenating mineral water baths as well as a wealth of intriguing activities.

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Location and Access

Hirugami Onsen is located between Nagoya and Matsumoto (both approximately 90 minutes by car) and about 3 – 4 hours by car from both Tokyo and Osaka. For public transportation, there are direct buses from Nagoya and Matsumoto.
Alternatively, highway buses from Tokyo (Shinjuku) and Osaka stop at Igara from which most inns provide shuttle service. By train, Iida Station on the JR Iida Line is 30 minutes by taxi.

When to Visit

Spring is one of the most popular times to visit Hirugami. The flowering peach trees bloom from early to late April, and cherry blossoms from late April to early May (see the Komatsunagi cherry tree here).

Stargazing at Star Village Achi is available throughout the year with regularly scheduled maintenance periods. Check their official website for open dates before your visit.

Things To Do

Stargaze on the Heavens Sonohara Night Tour

A highlight of staying at Hirugami is the Night Tour. After dinner, take a shuttle bus to Heavens Sonohara where an attendant in a NASA uniform will lead you into a gondola for a ride up to 1400-meter elevation. There you can enjoy Japan’s clearest night sky. Lay down on a blanket spread out on a grassy field and listen as the announcer points out and humorously explains the constellations.
*Plan ahead as the gondola is occasionally shut down for maintenance.

Website: https://sva.jp/ (Japanese)

Enjoy the Springtime Spectacle of Flowering Peach Trees

Every April, the area surrounding the resort town becomes awash in the vivid whites, pinks and reds of flowering peach trees. Achi Village boasts Japan’s largest number of hanamomo trees with a 40-kilometer stretch of Route 256 lined with the colorful blossoms. It is a must-see springtime drive.

Take a Dip in Hirugami Onsen’s Hot Spring Baths

Hirugami Onsen’s natural hot spring mineral water is renowned for its skin-softening effect. The highly alkaline water has a pH of 9.8 which makes your skin feel silky smooth and beautiful. And with a subtle sulfur scent, you will know it is authentic onsen water.

For travelers just passing through or people staying a few nights that want to check out a variety of baths, Yuttarina is Hirugami’s day-use onsen facility. In addition, seven ryokans and hotels also allow day-trippers to soak. Try some unique onsen baths, such as the massive ones at Hirugaminomori and the tatami baths at Tsurumakisou.

Meet Local Farmers and Artisans at the Morning Market

Hirugami Onsen’s popular Morning Market runs every day from 6:00 (6:30 in the winter) to 8:00. Not only can you buy seasonal produce and locally made crafts and specialty goods, but you can meet the actual farmers and craftspeople who greet you with a friendly smile. Located in the relatively isolated Ina Valley, the region has a unique culinary and artisanal heritage which you can see in person by visiting the Morning Market.

Stretch Your Legs and Go Trekking

Hirugami is convenient to Misaka Pass and the ancient Tosando Road. While the Nakasendo has a history from a few hundred years ago, the Tosando dates back 1,300 years. It stretched over a thousand kilometers with the most difficult section being Misaka Pass. The grueling passage was the stuff of legends—it is even referenced in Japan’s seminal literary work, the Tale of Genji. The steep hike to the pass takes three hours from Misaka Shrine (stop at the Visitor Center by Kojoin Temple on the way to learn the Tosando’s history). It can also be accessed from the Heavens Sonohara gondola. A further 30-minute trek takes you to Fujimidai Kogen, a scenic plateau from which 23 of Japan’s Top 100 Peaks can be seen.

Trail from Misaka Shrine trailhead

Nearby Excursions

Boat Rides on the Tenryu River

Hirugami Onsen is close to one of southern Nagano’s most exciting attractions: a boat ride down the Tenryu River. Both the Tenryu River Line Kudari and Tenryu River Wasen Kudari are about 20 minutes by car. The Wasen Kudari features handmade wooden boats that are solely powered by the river current and the oarsmen. From the Tokimata Dock, passengers are transported by bus upriver to the Benten Dock where staff give a hands-on demonstration on the traditional boat making techniques. Then it’s on to the boat for a scenic 35-minute ride down the Tenryu River. The course does have some rapids so expect to catch some spray.

Website: https://mr-tenryu.com/ (Japanese)

The Nakasendo Trail

Tsumago and Magome are a pair of post towns on the old Nakasendo Trail. They are both painstakingly preserved and offer a time slip back to the Edo Era (the 17th to early 19th century). Magome is only 25 minutes by expressway, while Tsumago is 35 minutes by windy mountain road. Places to stay are sparce in the post-towns, making Hirugami a useful alternative for accommodation.

Tsumago

Shimoguri no Sato

While very remote and difficult to access, Shimoguri no Sato is one of Southern Nagano’s most unforgettable photogenic spots. This tiny hamlet clings to a steep hillside Machu Picchu-style deep in the foothills of the Southern Japanese Alps at an elevation of 1,000 meters.

Tea grown by the hardy villagers

Where to Stay: Indulge Yourself in a Traditional Japanese Inn

No trip to Japan would be complete without experiencing a ryokan. Hirugami Onsen has 21 traditional Japanese inns that offer a chance to experience the classic Japanese lifestyle.

Perhaps the most luxurious ryokan is Sekitaitei Ishida. The labyrinthian hallways offer restive views of the inn’s serene gardens dotted with stone lanterns and covered in moss. A thatched-roof tea house, an actual Noh stage with nightly presentations of traditional performing arts, onsen baths divided men’s and women’s (both with outdoor baths) as well as a private bath, and of course the kaiseki dinner, featuring not only the regional mountain cuisine but also fresh fish from the markets in nearby Nagoya. Sekitaitei Ishida is an excellent way to appreciate the best of Hirugami Onsen.

Sekitaitei Ishida’s elegant entrance

Sekitaitei Ishida’s private onsen bath

Hirugami Onsen’s ryokans are clustered around the morning market area where you will find a leisurely walking path along the Achi River. There are a couple of onsen foot baths so you can take a break to soak your feet in the relaxing water.

Achi River “Sesaragi” walking path

Ahirunoyu Foot Bath

Fureainoyu Foot Bath

Besides the ryokan inns, there are several smaller guesthouses around the village. If you’d like to enjoy the stars as part of your stay, you can also stay at one of Achi’s campgrounds or go glamping at Mokki.

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