FromNagoya, 2 hours via Chuo Expressway to Misaka PA. (If no ETC card, use theNakatsugawa IC.) Route 7 leads to Magome-Juku and continues on to Tsumago-Juku.

Magome and Tsumago Post Towns

These two post towns line the old Nakasendo Trail on either side of Magome Pass. Magome is on a hillside with expansive views of Mt. Ena in the distance, while Tsumago is nestled in a deep valley. As a result, Magome is known as having a “Big Sky” and Tsumago a “Small Sky”. Both towns have been carefully preserved and look much the same as they did back in the samurai days. Their dark wooden buildings appear even more noble when accented by the vivid colors of fall leaves.

For lunch, both Magome and Tsumago have delectable cafes and soba noodle restaurants. Be sure to also try the regional specialty, gohei-mochi (sticky rice on a stick).

 

Passing through the steep cliffs of the Tenryu Gorge, this 50-minute leisurely cruise on a wooden boat offers stunning views of fall leaves reflecting on the river surface (peak colors mid-November). Passengers are entertained by traditional net fishing demonstrations along the way. If time allows, take a scenic walk around the rim of the gorge.

 

Check-in at your ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) and relax your body after that long drive with a soak in the hot spring baths. Hirugami’s alkaline onsen water will leave your skin feeling soft and beautiful. Then, have an early dinner as a romantic nighttime tour awaits.

 

A shuttle bus will take you to the Heavens Sonohara gondola for the ride to an altitude of 1,400 meters and Japan’s clearest night sky. There a guide will entertain with a humorous explanation of the constellations.

Senjojiki Cirque

 

From the parking lot, take a bus to ride the Chuo Alps Komagatake Ropeway up to Senjojiki Cirque. The upper station’s elevation is 2,612 meters – the highest terminal in all of Japan. The cirque’s name refers to its vast size, said to be as large as 1,000 tatami mats. Fall colors start early at this altitude, with the alpine plants turning color in September. The autumn leaves continue through November at the base, with the with the Komakusa Suspension Bridge area by the parking lot being especially colorful.

 

Website: https://chuo-alps.com/lang/en/

 

Close to Suganodai Parking Lot is venerable Kozenji Temple, which has a history of over 1,200 years. Its giant maple trees are also a fall foliage highlight of Southern Nagano. During the autumn colors season, the maples, towering cedars, three-tiered pagoda and massive wooden main gate are all lit up at night. The ryokan inns in nearby Hayataro Onsen make an excellent alternative for spending the night.

Website: http://kozenji.or.jp/ (Japanese)

 

If visiting later in autumn, an alternative to Senjojiki Cirque is Momiji Lake across the Ina Valley in Minowa Town. The park around the lake boasts 10,000 Japanese maple trees. They turn brilliant shades of red and orange in late October to mid-November. Momiji Lake can be reached by car in twenty minutes from Ihoku IC on the Nagano Expressway.

Note: On peak foliage viewing days, car access to the lake is restricted and reservations are required for parking spaces and shuttle bus service.

Website: https://www.minowa-town.jp/autumn-leaves/en

 

The autumn foliage season coincides with the apple harvest, and Nagano is famous for apples. There is nothing better than going to an orchard and eating a freshly picked apple. Miharashi Farm offers apple-picking from September to November and on the premises are restaurants (recommended for lunch on your second day), craft studios, and even a day-use onsen bath house.

Website: https://miharashi-farm.com/ (Japanese and machine translation)

 

Known as “Narai of a Thousand Houses”, this post town was the largest along the old Nakasendo Road, and the midway point between Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo). Treat yourself to an afternoon snack at one of the many cafes. The larch trees on the hills surrounding town turn yellow in the fall, bathing Narai in a golden autumnal hue.

 

With its stately black keep, Matsumoto Castle forms a handsome backdrop to the vivid autumn leaves of the trees along the moat.

Matsumoto Castle marks the end of this itinerary. While some people may head directly back to Nagoya and return their rental car, Matsumoto is also the gateway to the rest of Nagano Prefecture. Kamikochi and the Northern Japanese Alps, the driver’s paradise of the Venus Line, Hakuba Valley and similar places famous for their autumn splendor all await you.