48 Hours in Nagano City

August 18th, 2017 by
Category: Cuisine, Culture Art, Information, Sightseeing

In 1998, Nagano City hosted the Winter Olympic Games and introduced the world to the Japanese Alps, the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, and glorious Japanese powder (or, “japow”). But that isn’t all that the area has to offer. With beautiful Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines in the heart of Japan’s mountains, Nagano City is a hub of spiritual sites and natural splendor.

Take a model 2-day trip around Nagano City and enjoy another side of Japan!

National Treasure Zenkoji

The main hall of Zenkoji Temple


After arriving in Nagano, walk (or ride the colorful Gururingo bus) from the station to Zenkoji, following the wooden lanterns along Chuo-dori street. Eventually you’ll reach Motozen-machi with its cobbled streets and beautiful temple lodges. After passing through the Niomon and Sannomon gates, you’ll see Zenkoji—one of the largest wooden temples in Japan with over 1400 years of history.
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Experiencing the Japanese Countryside in Chikuma

November 30th, 2016 by
Category: Accomodations, Culture Art, Experience, Information, Outdoor Activities

Tyler shows our group some Showa era graffiti on a local earthern wall.

On a beautiful fall day, I joined a group of foreigners on a cycling tour of Togura Kamiyamada Onsen south of Chikuma City. The area was once home to several mountain castles and a post town so there is a wealth of history in the area. Our guide, local ryokan owner and area expert Tyler, took us along beautiful mountain roads and pointed out interesting relics and features along the way.
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Impressions of the Onbashira Festival

July 13th, 2016 by
Category: Culture Art, Events, Report

Locals watch as the first pillar is lifted into place at the Harumiya shrine.

The Onbashira festival is finally at an end. After months of preparation and twelve long days of labor, the sixteen onbashira pillars have reached their resting places at the corners of the four shrines of Suwa Taisha.

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Nagano’s Quiet Samurai Town

June 21st, 2016 by
Category: Accomodations, Experience, Sightseeing

Matsushiro castle in spring.

Matsushiro was once the domain of the Sanada clan, the samurai family starring in NHK’s newest historical drama, Sanada Maru. The Matsushiro domain covered the largest area of the Shinano province and thrived as a castle town during the Edo period. Now the Matsushiro area is a sleepy, undeveloped town with pristine artifacts of its Samurai history.

A group of us visited Matsushiro recently to learn more about its history and enjoy some cultural activities and local food.

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Summer Fun Around Lake Suwa

May 27th, 2016 by
Category: Experience, Information, Onsens (Hot Springs), Seasonal Topics, Sightseeing

A view of the lake from the rooftop of the Clasuwa restaurant.

In a land-locked prefecture, the Suwa area is surprisingly blessed with water. The surface of lake Suwa offers beautiful, reflective views of the surrounding mountains and sky. Hot springs bubble up from the grounds of Kami and Shimosuwa and feed over 150 public bathing facilities in the area. And, fresh water from the highlands helps brew Suwa’s many award-winning rice wines.

Visitors to the area have been increasing in advent of the 2016 Onbashira festival, so I thought I’d take a closer look at Suwa’s activities and sights.

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Hatsumode- the First Visit to a Shrine

January 3rd, 2013 by
Category: Information
the front Torii gate for Ikushima Tarushima Shrine

the front Torii gate for Ikushima Tarushima Shrine

 

Hatsumode literally means ‘ the first visit to a shrine or a temple’, and this year we  visited the Ikushima Tarushima Shrine in Ueda city.

My fellow blogger, Tyler-san has written about the shrine with a perfect explanation

so I will save the details on the shrine, but instead of the serene and quiet atmosphere of the shrine which Tyler-san depicted, the shrine on  new year’s holiday was very festive and crowded.

 

 

the bridge to the main hall of the shrine

this bridge is allowed to cross only during the New Year holidays

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was a long queue to cross the vermillion bridge which locates in the center of the shrine and leads to the main hall.

This bridge we heard, is open only during the New Year’s holidays for people visiting the shrine for their Hatsumode.
Other than the season, the bridge is saved only for the Gods and no one is allowed to cross it.
Once crossed the bridge we were right in front of the main hall, and making an 8 people lined queue by the instuction of a priest, we made the official visit to the Gods.
“a light bow- 2 deep bows- 2 clappings of hands- a deep bow- one last light bow”
is the politest official courtesy to Gods.  Of course you may make a wish afte clapping the second hands.
ducks in the shrine

ducks inside the shrine site

 

 

Legends of Zenkouji Temple – the Devoted Raccoon Dog

December 16th, 2012 by
Category: Culture Art, Information

Zenkouji Temple in Nagano City has many legends associated with it. On the east side of the road leading to Zenkouji, just south of the Nioumon Gate and outside one of the pilgrim lodges, is a small statue and sign about a devoted raccoon dog (mujina in Japanese).

The raccoon dog story on the roadside south of Zenkouji Temple

Next to the sign is a small sculpture of the raccoon dog and the monk.

Sculpture of the devoted raccoon dog and the monk

The lantern itself is still in the grounds of Zenkouji Temple. Look for it about 20m west of the southwest corner of the main hall.

Mujina Lantern at Zenkouji Temple

There is another, longer version of this story. A raccoon dog’s parents had died tragically, so the raccoon disguised itself as a human and travelled to Zenkouji. He wanted to dedicate a lantern to comfort his parents’ souls. He checked into the pilgrim’s lodge, and organized the construction of the lantern. After it was completed, he was relaxing in the bath when the landlord discovered he was a raccoon. He ran away. A while later, a samurai came to Zenkouji. Late that night, he went to pray at the temple. Near the lantern, he saw an apparition which was following him. He drew his sword and fought the ghost, and in the battle, he accidentally struck the lantern. Next day, the samurai went back to the temple and saw a scar on the lantern, from which blood had oozed. The lantern photo above shows a diagonal mark on the square stone above the vertical writing. Maybe that is the sword mark? The samurai left town and headed north. While travelling through the deep forest in the mountains, he was buried alive by a sandstorm, and died. Why? Because three years earlier he had needlessly killed the raccoon dog’s parents while travelling over a mountain pass. (Thanks to Miyairi-san for help with the translation.)

Mecca of Japanese Pilgrimage — Zenko-ji Temple

May 12th, 2012 by
Category: Culture Art, Experience, Sightseeing
Main Hall of Zenko-ji Temple (National Treasure)

Main Hall of Zenko-ji Temple (National Treasure)

Nagano, widely known as the host city of the Winter Olympics in 1998, has always been a Buddhist mecca for Japanese pilgrims since ancient times. This renowned temple, Zenkoji, has a history of 1,400 years and has grand 300 year-old Main Hall (believed to be one of the three largest historical Buddist temple buildings in Japan) designated as a National Treasure complementing its natural environs.
Walking through the pitch-black passageway underneath the altar of the sacred main image of Zenkoji (Amitabha), and touching the ‘Key to Paradise’, will give you a deep insight into what Buddhism has meant to the Japanese people.

Bell Tower of Zenko-ji Temple

Bell Tower of Zenko-ji Temple

Nio-mon (Deva King Gate)

Nio-mon (Deva King Gate)

 

Here, with an advance reservations and according to the number of your party, you can experience traditional Japanse culture such as Kimono, Tea Ceremony, and Zazen. Traditional Buddhist Meals are also available.

Nagano is only 85 min from Tokyo by Shinkansen. Come visit us.

Matsushiro’s Mysterious Side

July 23rd, 2011 by
Category: Information, Outdoor Activities

Nagano City’s Matsushiro area is known as a samurai town with several Edo-era temples and samurai estates open for viewing.  There’s also a recently restored castle, one of Nagano’s first school houses, a cool onsen with rust-colored water (high iron content), and a WWII-era underground headquarters complex, all within an easy bike ride from Matsushiro Station.  (Free ‘rental’ bikes available there;  NOTE:  the station is on the Nagaden Yashiro Line which is scheduled to be terminated later in 2011.  Regular bus service from Nagano Station also available.)

Minakami Mountain (with Otokogi Ramen in the foreground)

Minakami Mountain (with Otokogi Ramen in the foreground)

Besides the samurai and historical sides, Matsushiro has a mysterious side as well.  On the outskirts of town is a stand-alone mountain called Minakami-yama.  It was recently featured in the anime ‘Occult Accademy’.  But even before it’s anime stardom, it had been rumored to be a type of power vortex.  With it’s pyramid-like shape and unusual geological composition, some people say it was moved here by UFO’s. 

The family and I took a drive to check it out — and look for UFO’s.  After winding up the road through a thick forest, the top flattens out to a small plateau with a handful of houses and rice fields and even a golf course.  Minakami-jinja, the cool shrine at the top, dates back to the 15th/16th centuries and the building features a fascinating carved wood decoration at the entrance. 

Ancient Minakami Shrine

Ancient Minakami Shrine

Close-up of the woodcarving detail

Close-up of the woodcarving detail

We didn’t spot any UFO’s while there, but we did catch a glimpse of some of the salamenders growing in the marshy ponds near the shrine.  These salamenders normally grow in marshes at much higher elevations, not down here at the Zenkoji Plain.  All part of the mystery of Minakami-yama.

Mysterious Marsh

Mysterious Marsh

Access:  Prefectural Route #35 from Matsushiro.  Or Hirabayashi bus stop (30 minute walk to the top from there).

Recommended Nearby Restaurants:  ‘Otokogi Ramen’ on Rt. #35 at the base, one of the many soba shops in Matsushiro central, or the charming ‘Koen no Bench’ Italian restaurant (tel 026-278-7411) 10 minutes away by car.

Charming Koen no Bench restaurant

Charming Koen no Bench restaurant

Recommended Nearby Onsens:  Matsushiro-sou (rusty water, modern facilities, tel 026-278-2596), Ichiyou-kan (rusty water, rustic facilities, mixed bathing outdoor bath, tel 026-278-2016),  or Omuro Onsen (salty water, wood beam construction, outdoor baths overlook the Zenkoji Plain, tel 026-278-5687)

Vermillion and White: Ueda City’s Ikushima Tarushima Shrine in Winter

January 24th, 2011 by
Category: Seasonal Topics, Sightseeing

With a fresh covering of snow, Ueda City’s Ikushima Tarushima Shrine’s brilliant vermillion color stands out beautifully with the contrasting white of the snow. The other day, I had an errand to run in Ueda, and on the way back I stopped to see this shrine which is noted for supposedly being the geographic center of Japan (hence its nickname: Japan’s belly button).
ikushima-tarushima-shrine-winter
This shrine is also noted for being the home of Ikushima, the fertility god, and Tarushima, the god of fulfillment. Furthermore, it also supposedly houses all of the souls from throughout Japan. And as if that weren’t enough, its god is supposedly the guardian diety of the entire country. That makes it one noteworthy shrine.

Graceful Arched Bridge

Graceful Arched Bridge

For me, someone not very initiated in Shintoism, the thing that most stands out about this shrine is the destinctive vermillion color accenting the achitecture throughout the complex. And with a touch of contrasting white from the snow, it makes for even more of a photogenic setting.
img_30211
Ikushima Tarushima Shrine is accessible by train from Ueda Station on the local Ueda Dentetsu line. ‘Shimonogo’ is the closest station and has rental cycles available.

This shrine is so cool it has its own website. For info in English, you can check here.

February 3rd, Ikushima Tarushima Shrine, as well at shrines and temples throughout the country, the annual Setsubun bean throwing ceremony will take place. Ceremony starts at 2pm, been throwing at 3:30pm.