In another attempt to beat the summer heat, I headed up to Shigakogen with a group of friends to enjoy the highland weather and the area’s unspoilt nature. There are a total of 19 trails around Shigakogen that climb its many peaks, wander its marshlands and cut through its forests. In addition to its beautiful ponds and mountains, the views of the Nagano Plain below are stunning.
We drove up Shigakogen separately and met in the Kuma-no-yu area by the Sanzen Ski lifts. There is plenty of parking next to the ski lift and by the hotels across the street. A bus stop is also nearby, so those without a car can use the Shigakogen line bus from Nagano or Yudanaka station to get here.
Our course for the day was the Ikemeguri Trail (#6 on Shigakogen’s list here) which passes through Shiga’s marshlands and ponds before reaching Onuma-ike. The whole course takes about four hours total. You can either walk straight through the course and ride a bus back from the ending point, or double back from Onumaike to Kuma-no-yu. If you do the latter you can enjoy a dip in the local Kuma-no-yu hot springs .
The weather was great and Shigakogen was a pleasant 27°C. A few clouds hung high in the sky and a gentle breeze blew over the fields below. The trail was shaded by birch and pine forests and interposed with sections of man-made boardwalks across delicate marshes.
About 2 hours into our hike, we came to a clearing above the striking, cerulean-blue waters of Onuma-ike. As we descended towards the shore the water changed colors, becoming more vibrant and green one moment, calm and clear the next. When we finally reached the shore we walked out towards the bright torii gate in front of the pond’s Shinto shrine. The contrast of the lacquered wood and water made for a great photo op.
The rest of the trail continued through shaded woods, lasting about another hour and a half. When we resurfaced on the main road we took a friend’s car back to our starting point. As a reward for our outdoorsiness we planned to take a dip in the hot spring there but it was inundated with high schoolers on vacation. Instead, we headed down the mountain and got gelato at one of my favorite places in Nakano City, then parted ways to our separate air-conditioned apartments.
Thanks for reading! If you’d like to visit Shigakogen yourself but don’t have your own vehicle, check our Shigakogen line bus timetable.
Shigakogen Trails list
See this page for a list of all of Shigakogen’s hiking trails (Japanese only).
This hotel at the base of the Kumanoyu ski resort is known for its jade-colored hot springs. The water contains a variety of minerals and a relatively neutral pH. A great place to soak after a long day on the slopes or in the mountains.
Entrance Fee: 1000 yen for Adults
Hours: 12:30 to 15:30 (Weekdays), 12:30 to 15:00 (Weekends)
Fiore Gelato Shop
This small shop in front of the Tsuruya in Nakano City is conveniently located on the main road towards Shigakogen. They have a rotating selection of flavors including local specialties Nagano Purple (Grape) and Shinshu Ringo (Apple).
Holidays: Closed on Wednesdays
Hours: 10:00 to 18:00
Location: See Google Maps
Areas around the globe have been experiencing some crazy weather over the past month due to the dreaded El Niño effect. Wintery parts of the world have been unusually warm and green, and some areas of Japan have been reaching highs of 25℃ or more. It has also meant a late winter for Nagano prefecture, but don’t fear, folks: winter is here. The mountains are capped in white and ski resorts are open for business. Soon enough, your breath will be visible in your apartment and your shampoo will be freezing overnight.
I went skiing in Shiga Heights Ski Resorts February 22. It was one week after big snowfall in Nagano, so the ski courses were covered with wonderful natural snow. We (five Japanese, one from America, and one from Britain) really enjoyed skiing and snowboarding in the best condition.
For information visit the PowerSports OSJ webpage
“BANZAI BANZAI BANZAI”
Clouds parted after torrential rain moments before – 7hours30minutes into the race… feelings of conradmanship & luck.
Just happy to be there.
This time Lake Onuma, but many other rewarding places waiting for you around Nagano, Mount Asama & Shigakogen, the Northern Alps.
This event was almost completely un-advertisied but still 400 participants:
Hope to see more of you running & walking in Nagano soon^-^
Around 20 new friends & 4 toe-nails later…it was amazing.
Better than NZ Ironman, or Obuse Marathon (which is also great fun – see here)
For more information about hikes around Shigakogen ask the Guide-KUMIAI (registered guides) at 98 Hall – Olympic Memorial & Conservation Center (see Tylers entry)
People come to Nagano from far and wide to enjoy its natural beauty. And within Nagano, it doesn’t get much better than Shiga Kogen. With its majestic mountains and deep forests, not to mention the famous snow monkeys and other wildlife, Shiga Kogen’s wilderness is sure to delight your senses and instill a sense of awe.
Read the rest of this entry
Onsen water coming up out of a river bed?
You take a shovel to make your own bath?
And you adjust the water temperature by mixing in river water?
Sounds like something out of an onsen legend. But it’s not just a myth — it actually exists: Kiriake Onsen in the northern corner of Nagano Prefecture near the borders with Niigata and Gunma Prefectures.
You park your car at the lone ryokan, Yusenkaku, grab a shovel, cross the suspension bridge, walk down to the river, take care to avoid the onsen hot spots (the onsen temperature is supposedly a toe-tingling 57 deg C), find an area where the temperature is to your liking and move the rocks around until you have your own little onsen pool.
The other day, after we visited the snow monkeys, our family and some friends drove up and through Shiga Kogen and Oku-Shiga Kogen along the windy mountain road to Kiriake (approx. 45km and 2hours from Shibu-Yudanaka Onsen area).
Actually, I’d come here about 17 years ago. Back then, the road to Kiriake was a bumpy gravel one. It’s been paved since then, which may be the reason it’s lost some of it’s ‘hidden’ charm. Judging by the number of celebrity signatures, and by how many other people were there that day, the secret is out.
I had always wanted to have our kids experience this onsen-in-the-middle-of-a-river where you build a bath yourself. Plus, I was needing a relaxing break from the summer holiday rush. For me, this combination of natural setting and onsen is perfectly sublime.
You do actually use a shovel to make your own bath.
The onsen water does actually bubble up right in the middle of the river.
You do actually adjust the temperature yourself by mixing in river water.
And, being that it’s an all-natural phenomenom, the onsen keeps bubbling up in different spots. First over there, then over here, then, Ooh la la!, right here!
Although Kiriake is enjoyable any time of the year, being that it is located in the Akiyama (“autumn mountain”) District, it’s is probably at its prettiest when the fall leaves are in color. It’s location is very inconvenient, but that makes finding it that much more enjoyable. There really isn’t any bus access, so a car is highly recommended. Or, if you book a stay at Yusenkaku, they provided limited pick-up service.
I was all prepared to write about seeing the autumn leaves in Shiga Kogen and then noticed that Zeno beat me to it a week earlier and came back with some beautiful photos! So rather than try to steal the spotlight, I will tell of the wonderful drive I took my family on today — a drive up to Shiga Kogen, heading into Gunma and back into Nagano at Karuizawa.
As has been the trend in my family lately, we packed up the hiking boots, the day packs and the kids and headed to the mountains for some short hikes with beautiful views. We drove up from Nakano on Route 292 and continued on that road past the junction of Route 471. There are a number of marshes with boardwalks built over them in this area, as well as some nice little trails heading off into the autumn foliage. We took a stroll along a small trail near an onsen that you can clearly see belching steam on the right side of the road as you head in the direction of Gunma Prefecture. You’ll see lots of reds, oranges and yellows here, as well as the white birch trees and the green pines scattered throughout.
Back in the car, we head further uphill. And before long, we found ourselves in Gunma Prefecture, but not before reaching the highest point of the trip, on the slope of Yokote-yama, where the view down toward the rest of Shiga-Kogen, Nakano and Nagano City is absolutely spectacular!
Continuing on, we arrived at Shirane-san in Gunma (yeah, I know, this is a Nagano blog, but Shirane-san is in Shiga-Kogen and really is most easily accessible from Nagano, so let’s leave it be). Shirane-san is an active volcano that has a rather unique feature: a poisonous, acid pond in its crater. The sulfur and other gases in the area turn the water in the crater a light, pastel blue and it is great to see.
However, due to recent volcanic activity(yikes!) it is no longer safe to take the nearer course up to the crater. We walked up the, slightly farther away route available, but still got to enjoy the view. Our five-year-old was afraid the mountain would start erupting fire, and she was anxious to get off the mountain as soon as possible, but other than that, it was a great hike up. Our almost-three-year-old daughter was able to walk all the way up on her own, but as always, she wanted to be carried back down. Whatever course you take, it is steep in places, but paved, either with concrete or with round stones, as was the route we took today.
Later, we headed down to Kusatsu, an onsen village well-known to people in Japan and one that always seems to be jammed with traffic whenever we go. Kusatsu has a very large, yet delightful public rotenburo (or, outdoor bath) in a park you can visit. Its town center features a large area devoted to gathering sulfer and other minerals found in the water there (more info on Kusatsu here). Aside from picking up some onsen manju, we didn’t stop in Kusatsu on this trip, and instead headed on, passing through lots of rolling forest land and back into Nagano along the Shiraito Toll Road to Karuizawa. There was a lot of wonderful autumn colors along the Shiraito Toll Road, and it looked as if that area has yet to reach its peak as of this posting.
It was a great day trip, and I recommend it, even if you are too late for the autumn colors. Our course was the Nagano Expressway to Shinshu Nakano Interchange. Then Route 292 all the way through Shiga Kogen and beyond Kusatsu Onsen. After that, we took Route 146 back into Nagano Prefecture and then turned left onto the Shiraito Toll Road, which took us straight into the center of Karuizawa.
Only one word of warning: Be sure to dress warmly! It is cold up there, and the one word I heard most that day was “Samui!”
What do ski lifts do in the Green Season? Just sit around waiting for the snow to fall to bring skiiers? Not here in Nagano. Many snow resorts operate lifts in the summer, too, providing access to alpine wonderlands usually not easily reached. The lifts can give you a break from the stifling summer heat by taking you up to mountain tops where it’s several degrees cooler than down below.
Our family recently rode the lift at Hijiri Kogen. There the attraction wasn’t the flowers, it was the 360-degree panorama view (as well as the slider ride on the way back down). Hijiri Kogen is best reached by car (approx. 25 min.) from Omi IC on the Nagano Expressway.
Shiga Kogen Heights offer alpine trekking easily reached by a series of lifts and even escalators (at Yokoteyama). One such route is described here.
As Nagano transitions from summer to fall, the greens are replaced by golden yellows, browns and reds as the fall foliage comes on. Even more reason to ride Nagano’s ski lifts in skiing’s off-season!